First Start Checklist

• Fuel system
• Engine coolant
• Engine oil
• Transmission
• Power steering

Pre-startup

• Disconnect the engine ECU
• Disconnect the coil HT lead
• Double check that every oil union has been correctly tightened and that the sump plugs are in place!

Fuel system

• If the tank has been used previously, it's probably worth removing the pump top plate and giving it a wipe down inside
• Fill the fuel tank about a quarter-full with unleaded
• Remove the EFi fuel pump relay and bridge pins 33 and 33a to manually run the fuel pump. You should hear the note of the pump drop as it comes under load as the fuel hits the pressure regulator on the end of the injector fuel rail.
• Keep the pump running for another ten seconds or so to ensure as much air as possible has been forced out of both the fuel lines and the fuel rail itself. No further bubbling noises should be heard from the fuel pipes once all the air has been expelled
• Remove the wire link and replace the fuel pump relay

Engine coolant

• Move the heater temperature control to the 'hot' position
• Remove the filler turret cap, radiator cap and expansion tank cap
• Premix a couple of gallons of 50/50 glycol antifreeze / water and fill gently via the aptly named fill turret to the left of the plenum chamber. Filling from here should force all of the air from the heater matrix and cylinder heads
• Keep pouring until the coolant reaches the level of the radiator fill plug, then re-insert the plug
• Keep filling until the level reaches that of the fill turret itself, then replace the turret's cap
• Finish topping up by the expansion tank until it reaches the prescribed level then replace the cap

Engine oil

• Disconnect the oil cooler lines at the cooler and fill the engine oil cooler with oil
• Fill a new oil filter with enough oil so that it doesn't spill when tipped to screw onto the oil cooler adaptor, and install it
• As best as you can, prime the oil cooler lines. If this looks like it will be prohibitively messy, skip this step!
• Reconnect and tighten the oil cooler lines
• Fill the engine to just above the dipstick 'full' mark

Transmission

• Disconnect the oil cooler lines at the cooler and fill the transmission oil cooler with ATF
• As best as you can, prime the oil cooler lines. If this looks like it will be prohibitively messy, skip this step!
• Reconnect and tighten the oil cooler lines
• Fill the transmission with n litres of ATF. Note that as the true oil level can only be checked when the engine is running, you will not be able to get a real 'feel' for how full it is just yet. Suffice it to say that if the transmission has been drained and has been stood for a while, most of the valve body and at least a half of the torque converter will be empty, so that level will drop considerably in the next section!

Power steering

• Jack up the front axle so the front wheels are free to turn. This is not essential, but it helps!
• Fill the power steering resovoir with ATF
• Loosten the bleed nipple on the top of the power steering box
• Push a length of tube over the end, placing the other end of the tube into a jar or old oil bottle on the floor
• Fluid may start to reverse-fill the box directly from the resovoir. If so, allow the fluid to run until few bubbles are seen
• Keep an eye on the resovoir level, topping up as necessary
• Turn the wheel from lock to lock and back again a couple of times, keeping an eye on the fluid levels. Air should be expelled quite rapidly during this process
• Lift the jar/bottle until it is slightly below the fluid resovoir. Ensure the pipe is well out of the way of the engine drive belts

Turn engine on the starter

Make sure your battery is well charged before you attempt this!

• Turn the engine over for approximately ten seconds
• Watch the oil pressure light. If you're lucky, it'll go out towards the end of this turn-over period
• Check the engine, ATF and power steering levels again and top up if necessary
• Repeat the above three steps once more
• Finally, tighten the power steering bleed nipple and remove the pipe

First start!

• Reconnect the ECU and coil HT leads
• Ensure the handbrake is applied
• Place the transfer box in neutral
• Move the main gear shift to the neutral position (not Park)
• Start the engine, but DO NOT REV IT
• Move the gear shift from 'N' to '1', stopping at each position in between for about five seconds, then move back to 'N'. Repeat twice.
• Pause in 'N' for ten seconds to allow the output shaft to stop spinning, then select 'R' for five seconds, then move back to 'N'. Repeat twice.
• Pause in 'N' for ten seconds to allow the output shaft to stop spinning, then select 'P', skipping over 'R', pause for a few seconds, then move back to 'N', again skipping 'R'
• With the engine still running, check the transmission fluid level and top up if necessary
• Swing the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times, but do not apply pressure at the ends of the steering travel. Listen to the steering pump and ensure it's running smoothly and not whining
• Apply the footbrake and shift the transfer box into high range, then the main gearbox into 'D'. The box should have filled itself by now and hence be transmitting drive, indicated by a drop in engine tone as the first gear clutches engage
• Select 'P', stop the engine and check for any leaks from any oil hoses
• Allow the vehicle to stand for a couple of minutes, then check the engine oil level, power steering level and coolant levels, topping up as necessary

That's about it! Take your motor for a gentle drive and re-check the levels. Make sure the transmission is behaving as it should, and DO NOT forget to connect the kickdown cable as this regulates box line pressure: failing to connect it means inadequate pressure will be applied to the clutches, causing them to slip and hence burn out.